Introduction to Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches
One of the most iconic watches in modern history, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the brand’s first luxury sport watch of substance when it was introduced to the world in 1972. The Royal Oak was designed to be a luxury sport watch – an all-new category of sport watches for that era. It was the start of a new watchmaking arena. Its octagonal bezel and bold dial pattern made it an immediate hit. It has since become a legend, inspiring off-shoot collections and earning a top spot as a must-have “Holy Grail” collectors watch.
History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The legendary Swiss watch designer and artist Gerald Genta designed the Royal Oak watch at the request of the brand’s executives, who were looking for something uniquely different as a luxury sport line. They also asked that the design be presented the next day. In less than 24 hours, Genta designed a masterpiece whose fame would live forever in watchmaking history books.
The design: a bold stainless steel watch with an octagonal bezel featuring eight exposed screws. Generously sized for that era at 41mm, the watch was equipped with an integrated steel bracelet design. It was the start of an all-new rage for luxury sport watches. While the design was created in 1970, the watch did not come to fruition until 1972. The first Royal Oak prototypes were fabricated in white gold because the company did not have enough time to properly mill and finish the hard stainless steel to perfection in time for the Basel Fair debut in 1972. The first Royal Oak watches in steel were priced at about $3,600 – and took quite some time to catch on … selling only 1,000 in the first three years.
There is a lot of speculation about the inspiration behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch. The most popular story, and the one most widely believed, is that when he designed it, Genta was inspired by the diving suits of the 1950’s and 1960’s – particularly the diving mask with eight screws that was attached to the suit. Other theories are that it was inspired by the portholes of the British Navy ships, or that it was inspired by the canon muzzle on the HMS Royal Oak British Navy ship launched in 1862.
Theories also abound as to how the watch got its name, ranging from the tree in Britain where King Charles II from England hid from his 17th century enemies, to being named for the eight British naval ships that carried the Royal Oak name (the more likely theory).
Key Royal Oak Watches
Since it was first unveiled to the world almost half a century ago, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has evolved and extended to include a host of different collections. Among these are the Royal Oak Chronograph and the Royal Oak Concept watches. Like its name suggest, the Chronograph versions offer countdown timing functions and other features. The Royal Oak Concept watches are timepieces that are high complications such as tourbillons and multi-function pieces that are executed in futuristic 3D architecture and materials.
Today, the Royal Oak collection is so extensive that it consists of Grand Complications, Tourbillons, Double Balance Wheel Openworked watches, self-winding chronographs, self-winding three-hands, extra-thin tourbillons, and perpetual calendars. In addition, the Royal Oak is now offered in gold. Audemars Piguet even offers a specialized diving version of the Royal Oak, called the Offshore.
Features and Functions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
All Audemars Piguet new and vintage Royal Oak watches house mechanical movements that are made in-house in the brand’s manufacture. Some of the smaller women’s watches house quartz movements. All of the watches still feature octagon bezels with eight hexagonal screws. (At one point in time there was even a square Royal Oak. Thankfully that time was short.)
The Royal Oak also features a consecutive square pattern on the dial that the brand refers to as “Tapisserie.” On the Royal Oak Chronograph, the subsidiary dials are shown at 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 for easy reading. There is a date between 4:00 and 5:00. Typically, the Royal Oak watches are sold with a folding clasp.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak prices vary depending on the material or metal used and the complication. They hold their value and are always in demand on the second-hand market.
Care and Maintenance of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Taking care of a luxury watch requires attention and maintenance. One of the most important things you can do when you buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch is to make sure the fit is right on your wrist. If the watch is too loose and sways, the efficiency of the winding system can be affected. You should also wind your watch at least once a month to help keep the movement parts oiled. Don’t forget that, like a car, a mechanical watch may need periodic servicing.
Watchmaker’s Perspective
From a technical watchmaking perspective, there is one version of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that really stands out. The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Reference 15407 is a fascinating take on improving isochronism in a mechanical timekeeper.
In any mechanical watch, the balance wheel oscillates at its natural frequency. The moment of inertia of the balance wheel is determined by its size and weight. Normally, the only way to change these attributes is by making a wider diameter balance wheel or using a heavier metal to make the balance wheel. The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel takes a different approach by using two balance wheels mounted on the same balance staff. This achieves the same result that would have required a much larger balance wheel, but without re-arranging the entire movement. It also improves the isochronism in the watch in a meaningful way. With the extra mass of the double balance wheel, a much larger shock would be required to cause it to deviate from its natural frequency.
The end result of this is a watch that does a better job at keeping precise time. Audemars Piguet has outdone themselves with this super technical version of their famous Royal Oak wristwatch.
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